Altyn-Emel: the Singing Dune, Aktau and how to plan the trip from Almaty

Altyn-Emel is the largest national park in Kazakhstan and the strangest place you can reach from Almaty: in the middle of the steppe stands a three-kilometre dune that sings when dry sand slides down its face, and an hour away are the Aktau mountains, striped like a slice of cake.

The road and the permit

The park lies about 250 km north-east of the city via Kapshagai and Saryozek, three to four hours by car. Entry is through the village of Basshi, where the park office issues permits and takes the entry fee. Order the permit in advance through the park or a tour agency, especially for weekends. Roads inside the park are gravel but passable for an ordinary car in dry weather; after rain you need a 4×4.

What to see

• The Singing Dune, 150 m high. The walk up the ridge takes half an hour, the way down is quicker. The hum is heard in dry weather as you slide down the face. Go in the morning or evening; by day the sand is scorching.
• The Aktau mountains: white, pink and red layers of sedimentary rock, 70 km from the dune. Walking trails through the gullies, an hour or two.
• Katutau: black frozen lava flows on the road to Aktau.
• The Besshatyr burial mounds and a 700-year-old willow at a spring, on the way to the dune.

How many days

In one day from Almaty you can manage only the dune: leave at six, return late at night. The sensible format is two days with a night in Basshi or the park's guesthouses: day one the dune and the mounds, day two Aktau and Katutau. Such a day is part of our collection “A week in Almaty”.

When to go

April–May and September–October: warm but not hot, and clear. In summer the steppe passes +40 °C and only sunrise and sunset are bearable. The park is open in winter, with little snow but strong wind.

What to bring

Plenty of water, food for the day (there is no cafe in the park), a full tank, a hat and sunscreen, and cash for the permit and guesthouses. There is mobile signal only in Basshi.